A Visit Inside the Earth

By “Awake!” correspondent in Lebanon

NO EARTHLY sculptor could carve the beauty that unfolds inside the earth. Here is a breathtaking wonderland; a phenomenon of fantastic formations of colorful stalactites and stalagmites, exquisite chambers, and crystal-clear waters.

Underground caverns are found in many parts of the world. In Lebanon we have a truly remarkable example of their beauty​—the gorgeous Jeita caves. They are located in the Lebanon Mountains not far from the blue Mediterranean.

On the Way

We decided to visit them recently. Leaving Beirut, we drove for just thirty minutes along the Mediterranean Sea until we arrived at the Dog River, or Nahr El Kalb as the Arabs call it. The source of this river is found in the caves of Jeita.

This place was the crossroads of the ancient world. Here Pharaohs marched against the Hittites. Syrian kings traveled this route to conquer the cities of Sidon and Tyre. And Roman legions under General Vespasian passed this way to suppress revolt in Jerusalem. All were unaware of the marvelous realm that lay inside the earth so nearby!

Discovery and Exploration

The Jeita caves were discovered only a little more than a hundred years ago. An American named Thomson, while on a hunting trip, sought shelter in a mountain cave. He heard gurgling water, and curiously, but cautiously, followed the sound. To his amazement he came upon the shores of an underground lake. Wondering where it might lead, he fired his gun into the darkness. The answer came back​—a reverberating echo through a maze of caverns. Thus Jeita was discovered in the year 1836.

Thirty-seven years later, in 1873, two engineers of the Beirut Water Company, Maxwell and Bliss, made further explorations, discovering the source of the Dog River. They were the first to set eyes on the colorful stalagmite and stalactite formations. Additional expeditions were made by others, locating more wonders. Finally the farthest parts of the caves were reached​—over four miles!

In one place, in which only the most daring cave explorers would venture, the roof of the cavern is some 200 feet high! This gaily decorated cave was opened to the public in 1955. In 1958 an upper chamber was discovered over 160 feet above the river. This, too, has thousands of formations. It was officially opened to the public in August 1967.

Beginning the Tour

We reach the inside of the caves, and notice that the air is much cooler than outside. Here at Jeita the caverns remain at a constant 59 degrees Fahrenheit the year around. Coming to a body of water, we get into a gondola-type flat boat. With keen anticipation we continue our journey inside the earth.

Our boatman stands in the bow with a long steering pole that he uses deftly to guide our boat through the dark waters. The channel is wide, but quickly narrows. The huge rock on the right was called “The Cork” by early explorers, since it had blocked their efforts to explore the Caverns further. As we pass it, we get our first glimpse of the colorful stalactites.

These exquisite wonders hang from the ceiling like huge icicles, canopies, chandeliers, and draperies. And in what a gorgeous cascade of colors​—tans, reds and whites! Also, on all sides stalagmites in a variety of sizes, shapes and colors jut from the cave floor. Some are like huge pillars and trees; one looks like the leaning tower of Pisa. Others resemble demijohns, jellyfish and even figures of humans and animals. In places stalagmites rise to meet the hanging stalactites to form one solid column.

Breathtaking Formations

Surprisingly, the Great Sculptor used very simple tools to chisel out these masterpieces of art. Limestone and water are the basic ingredients. In fact, the word stalactite means “oozing of drops.”

Water seeps into the caves from above-ground, carrying minute particles of calcium carbonate dissolved from the limestone. The water hangs from the ceiling in drops that very slowly evaporate. The calcium carbonate that remains forms a small ring on the ceiling and crystallizes. The object grows as drops of water continue to evaporate slowly and leave their deposits.

Sometimes the water does not completely evaporate but falls, depositing the beginnings of an inverted stalactite, or stalagmite. These formations grow at a slow rate. We look in amazement at an immense column. What a marvel! It must be fifty feet high!

Jeita is by no means the largest cave in the world. Mammoth Cave in Kentucky has more than 150 miles of explored tunnels! However, Jeita provides the comfort of viewing its wonders as one glides noiselessly through crystal-clear waters.

The Upper Galleries

After our twenty-five minute ride on this calm subterranean lake, we still have ahead of us another forty minutes in the breathtaking upper galleries. We find these no less a wonder.

Here, too, the stalactite and stalagmite formations grow in all shapes​—some sparkling like precious gems in reddish and greenish hues. Others appear to be a forest of pine trees. The most beautiful of all the stalactite formations are the rare white stalactites called calcite, formed from pure calcium carbonate.

But most formations are in color combinations. Carbonic acid picks up minerals in the soil, and these give the formations their color. Iron turns formations yellow, orange-brown and red. Manganese makes them black, while copper gives them a greenish or bluish tint. That is why our realm inside the earth is so lovely.

The calm and quietness here move us to whisper. Only the sound of dripping water from the stalactite feeding her sister the stalagmite breaks the silence. The upper galleries give one the impression of a huge concert hall, and, indeed, it is used for that very purpose! How grand it must be to listen to music in such an inspiring setting!

Truly the Great Sculptor has carved an underground realm that delights the eyes. No wonder it calls forth from us visitors to Jeita expressions of praise to the Creator.