Where River and Forest Are Friends of Man
By “Awake!” correspondent in Papua New Guinea
MAN’S need for energy produced from readily available natural resources is ever increasing. This need has brought a large crowd of scientists, engineers, technicians and laborers to a somewhat unknown region of the earth—the Purari River basin in Papua New Guinea. Here are vast tropical forests and an abundance of undammed water masses from many mountain-river systems, representing a major supply source as yet virtually untapped by man.
Hopes are being expressed that these resources can be utilized to produce electrical power with as little pollution as possible to the environment. It is thought that this will be a boon to the people, to the economic growth and to the general progress of a rapidly developing country.
Yet, Papua New Guinea may be little more than a name to you. Or perhaps you think of it as a distant, remote place. What is it really like? Where is this Purari River? And what changes would a giant hydroelectric power system bring about in this intriguing land? Come with us and see for yourself.
Rugged Mountains and River Systems
Papua New Guinea comprises the eastern portion of the New Guinea mainland, the world’s largest island after Greenland. It is situated just north of Australia. Together with numerous isles and archipelagos, this spread of 600 islands represents the eastern extremity of the great arc of fold mountains extending through the Himalayas and Malaysia into the Pacific. It includes some of the world’s most rugged and hazardous mountain regions. Often these ranges are quite high, with many peaks rising to over 4,000 meters (13,000 feet). Here we find steep gorges, picturesque valleys and thundering waterfalls. Indeed, this is a most unique and interesting country.
The headwaters of the Purari River have their source here in the highland regions at the highest peak in Papua New Guinea, Mt. Wilhelm. As these mountain-river systems leave the higher elevations, they form the mainstream, the Purari River. It meanders through the low-lying tropical forests and swamplands along the Papuan Gulf and finally empties its slow-moving muddy waters into the Coral Sea.
The people in this varied tropical land are as interesting as the scenery.
Highland Tribes and Coastal Dwellers
The early inhabitants of Papua New Guinea lived off the land around them. They were hunters and food gatherers. As time passed, the people began to acquire a knowledge of gardening and the cultivating of plants. Today, a nearly self-supporting economy has been established. Plants common to tropical regions—taro, yam, banana, sugarcane, breadfruit, sago palm and the coconut—make up the greater part of the diet. Ever present are many pigs, dogs and chickens.
The people live along coastal strips and, at times, on densely wooded islands or jungle-clad ranges and in the rugged highland regions. Often living in isolation from one another, they have preserved distinct customs and traditions, as well as 700 and more languages and dialects. The people have long been split into groups and clans, frequently living in hamlets built on the banks of rivers or in remote villages along rain-soaked mountain ridges. Yet, varied as they are in tribes, clans, customs and languages, the people share in common two invaluable friends—the waters of the river and the natural forests of the land. Plant life varies in type from the swamp and lowland forests of the coastal plain to moss and alpine vegetation. The waters of the river are a life-sustaining necessity. To the hunter, the forests mean birds and animals for food, as well as fur and brilliant plumage for personal adornment.
In the clearings near their hamlets and villages, the people plant their gardens. From the forest they obtain wood for carvings, garden tools, spears, bows and arrows, clubs and many other weapons for warfare and the hunt. Additionally, the forest gives them fuel, bark and fibers for clothing. It provides timber for dwellings, thatching for roofs and material for walls. Bamboo and cane bridges are built to span rivers and gorges. Coastal dwellers also look to the forest. From its materials they fashion their canoes, fishing nets and traps. The forest provides the fibers needed to build their great multiple log seacrafts. In the vast swampland surrounding the Purari River, the log canoe is practically their sole means of transport, for these people use neither wheel nor beast of burden. Yes, indeed, the forest truly is their friend.
Timber Resources Aplenty
Now we approach the picturesque coastline, coming from the Coral Sea. We are greeted by clusters of coconut trees lining the beaches on both sides of the mouth of the Purari River. Traveling slowly upstream, we reach the tidal swamp where mangroves are found. Then come grass swamps and palm swamps, where man can still meet up with the crocodile.
Leaving the swamps behind, we reach the luxuriant lowland rain forests. Generally, these are layered, with many large trees forming a shady canopy, something like a large umbrella for the undergrowth of palms, vines and canes. From these virtually undisturbed forests, it is hoped, needed timbers can be obtained for the construction of dams, power stations, living quarters for the work force and the like.
Continuing our journey upstream, we approach the mountainous regions of the hinterland. Here the Purari takes on the appearance of a rugged mountain stream, with some treacherous rapids and waterfalls. At an altitude above 1,000 meters (3,281 feet) the rain forests give way to the lower mountain forest, where the trees generally lack the large umbrellalike canopies seen earlier. This forest is dominated by trees of the oak family. A striking feature in certain areas is the appearance of Klinki Pines, trees native to Papua New Guinea. Some of these are 85 meters (280 feet) tall, with a diameter of 2 meters (6 feet).
At above 2,100 meters (6,900 feet) the lower mountain forest generally gives way to the mountain forest. It extends to an elevation of about 3,350 meters (11,000 feet) and frequently is dominated by a beech tree species called Nothofagus. Here we find a variety of conifer, a cone-bearing tree. At higher elevations the forest becomes somewhat stunted and moss covered in appearance. Tall pandanus, a screw pine, are also to be sighted. Close to the headwaters of the many mountain streams, the alpine flora generally is restricted to tussock grasses, tree ferns and shrubs. We have reached the end of our journey upstream. Before us is the rocky summit of Mt. Wilhelm.
In addition to the forests of the Purari River area, we find extensive grasslands, both in the highland valleys and in lowland regions. Dominated by a grass called Kunai, these grasslands have developed as a result of the frequent use of fire for clearing garden sites and for flushing animals from concealment when men are hunting.
Vast Water Resources
Since the elevation in the basin area ranges from sea level to nearly 4,700 meters (15,400 feet), the climate varies greatly. It ranges from hot and humid in the delta and lower regions to cold, with the occasional frosts and rare instances of snow, on the highest mountain peaks. Papua New Guinea has no recognizable summer or winter, only “wet” and “dry” periods. These depend on the two prevailing seasons, the northwest monsoon occurring from December to May and the southeast trade winds from May to December.
On an average, the mean annual rainfall in the whole catchment area is 370 centimeters (146 inches). With its high proportion of rugged landscapes and heavy rainfalls, the Purari River basin has significant hydroelectric potential. The stream systems forming the main river descend from the highlands through steep and narrow gorges, making possible dam sites a common feature. The potential for development of the waters in this basin is indeed tremendous. While a need for such enormous quantities of electrical power may not arise for a very long time, the presence of such huge potentials in a rapidly developing region is encouraging to the planners.
What the Future May Bring
As scientists, technicians and laborers work toward the completion of this engineering project involving dams, tunnels, power stations and transmission lines, they will bring about far-reaching and permanent changes, not only to the land, but also to the majority of the people living in the Purari River catchment area. It will be an awakening to the twentieth century of modern man. The first impact will be linked with the flooding of homes and land. People will have to be resettled. A unique wildlife habitat of value both to the local residents and to the tropical ecological system will be lost in the areas covered by water. Scientists, economists, conservationists and others will have to undertake thorough studies to ensure a progressive development of this region.
Government. authorities already are looking forward to the promising economic gain from this project. By using access roads leading to dam sites, major timber industries could be established. Readily available here is hardwood, making possible the production of plywood, veneer, sawed timber and pulpwood, to mention some of the products produced by such industries. The timber industry of Papua New Guinea has exciting possibilities before it, and already it is on the threshold of rapid growth and diversified expansion. The descendants of forest dwellers of long ago rapidly are emerging as capable trained workers. There also exist large areas well suited for irrigation. Hence, development of agriculture and livestock industries can be expected. With rural electrification and the development of hydroelectric power, the potential for industrial development appears to be great.
Not to be forgotten is the ever-popular tourist trade. Tourism already has a good start in this country. Besides beautiful scenery, there are the varied native and wildlife attractions. Well-organized handcrafts also add to the unique tropical atmosphere of this country.
In the past the Purari River has “befriended” inhabitants of Papua New Guinea. Lush forests of their island home also have served them well. But only time will tell to what extent modern man will find this land’s waters and forests to be his “friends.”