After a week, Brother Michalec boarded an old passenger train for Oruro, the third-largest city at the time. It was a bleak, cold place on the altiplano, a railroad center for the nearby mining areas. Although the surroundings were drab, the people were generally humble and friendly. But Brother Michalec knew very little then about a certain devilish rite that enslaved many of these humble folk.

For centuries, since before the arrival of the Catholic priests, miners here in Bolivia have believed that the mines are controlled by an underground lord whom they call el tío (literally, the uncle). The Catholic Church, unable to uproot the belief, absorbed it and even promotes it. El tío now became the Devil, and the miners were taught to implore the “Virgin” for protection. Conditions in the mines contribute to the superstition.

Though the mine entrance may be covered with icicles, the heat inside these humid caverns can go as high as 120 degrees Fahrenheit (50° C.). The miners labor with heavy tools in dank hollows that lack sufficient oxygen and that are laden with dust and poisonous gases. Their mouths, stained dark green, give evidence of their addiction to coca leaves, which they chew in order to suppress hunger pangs and to make them feel more energetic. Such torturous conditions, combined with their pagan concept of hellfire, pave the way for veneration of the Devil.

Almost every mine has at its entrance a small niche for an image of el tío. Upon this idol, complete with horns and tail, are lavished offerings of alcohol, cigarettes, and coca leaves. It is hoped that this will persuade the Devil to protect the miners from death down under.

Before and during the annual festival featuring the Devil dance, large sums of money, often spent by those least able to afford it, go into elaborate costumes and the purchase of coca leaves and alcohol. The streets are filled with Devil dancers, who culminate their rite in the Catholic Church of the Socavón (Church of the Mines). Here they pay homage to the “Virgin,” chanting: “We come from hell to ask your blessing, all your sons of the Devil, little Mother of the mine shaft.” A special Mass is said by the Catholic priest for these “sons of the Devil.” During the days of the festival, chaos reigns as crowds of drunken men and women, covered with mud, confetti, and flour, throw water, sing out of tune, and fight.