A Weather Vane and an Orange Garden

Seville, however, had another golden age long before the discovery of America, and several of its magnificent buildings date from that earlier period. For several centuries the Moors​—most of whom came from Morocco—​ruled vast areas of Spain. During the 12th century, the Almohad dynasty made Seville its capital, and during this period it built a mosque whose minaret still overlooks the modern city.

When the Moors were expelled from Seville, the citizens dismantled the city’s mosque to make room for the cathedral of Seville, the third-largest cathedral in Europe (photo No. 1). The elegant minaret, however, seemed too good to lose, so it became the bell tower of the cathedral, which was erected alongside it. The tower’s harmonious proportions, intricate brickwork, and elaborate windows provide a pleasing contrast to the massive cathedral.

Some 500 years ago, earthquake damage led to a renovation of the upper part of the tower, and a bronze weather vane replaced the original dome. The weather vane gave the minaret its Spanish name, La Giralda (photo No. 2), and the tower has become the most familiar landmark of Seville. The Giralda also offers a magnificent panorama of the city to those energetic visitors willing to climb to the top.

At the foot of the cathedral tower lies a small Moorish courtyard that formed part of the original mosque, the Patio de los Naranjos. This square, adorned with rows of orange trees, has become a prototype of many similar Andalusian courtyards.b And since many of the streets and squares in Seville are also lined with orange trees, the smell of orange blossoms pervades the whole city during the spring. Groves of orange trees​—first brought to Spain by the Moors—​still surround the city, and their fruit is prized for use in making marmalade.

The Guadalquivir River, which flows through the city, has always been a lifeline for the merchants of Seville. It enabled the city to become the principal Spanish port for the New World, and ships still use the inland harbor. The riverbanks near the city center are lined with gardens. And on one bank lies another reminder of Seville’s Moorish past, La Torre del Oro, the Golden Tower.​—Photo No. 3.

The tower’s name harks back to the time when golden-colored tiles covered its exterior. Its main purpose, however, was defense rather than decoration. A heavy chain once stretched from the Golden Tower to a twin tower on the opposite bank, enabling defenders to control all river traffic. Appropriately enough, it was here that the ships from the Americas unloaded their gold and silver. Nowadays, tourist boats rather than galleons discharge their cargo alongside the Golden Tower.

Gardens, Courtyards, and Tiles

The Moors built palaces as well as mosques, and they planted gardens to grace their palaces. Thus, Seville boasts one of the most beautiful palace-garden complexes in Spain, the Reales Alcázares, the Royal Palace (photo No. 4). The palace dates back to the 12th century, although extensive alterations were made in the 14th century. The Moorish style, however, has been preserved, and visitors are constantly impressed by the exquisite decoration of the rooms and courtyards, with their delicate arches, colorful tiles, and intricate plasterwork.

Surrounding the palace is a delightful garden replete with fountains and palm trees. The Moorish ruler even constructed a ten-mile-long [16 km] aqueduct to ensure that his garden would be properly watered. Such is the charm of the palace and its gardens that the Spanish royal family have used it as one of their official residences for the last 700 years.

Just as orange trees lend their shade and aroma to the streets of Seville, colorful tiles give character to the city’s houses. The Moors also brought this style to Spain. They invariably lined their interior rooms with tiles decorated with geometric patterns. Today decorative tiles of every sort embellish the exteriors of houses, shops, and stately homes.