Monasteries in the Air

Whatever the geologic explanation for Meteora might be, since the ninth century C.E., these rocks have attracted attention. Modern mountaineers, who climb the Meteora with special climbing equipment, can perhaps best appreciate the feat of early religious hermits who settled in the caves and fissures of the rocks. How the monasteries were built on the top of these virtually inaccessible rocks is still being debated.

How did those in early times get up to and down from their lofty monasteries? Well, as stated by the book Meteora—The Rock Monasteries of Thessaly, ‘they could either clamber up wooden ladders let down from the top of the cliffs or allow themselves to be hauled up in a net lowered from a windlass in the monastery above. In either case the visitor had to rely on the good faith and the doubtful engineering of the monks.’ Asked how often the rope that held the net was changed, a former abbot is reported to have said: ‘Only when it breaks.’ It was not until 1925 that steps were hacked out of the rock to make access much easier.

The first religious hermits who climbed up the pillars were Varnavas, sometime between 950 and 965 C.E., and Andronikos from Crete, in 1020. Other monks from all over Byzantium followed, swelling the number of the monastic houses on top of the rocks to 33. By the 16th and 17th centuries, the communities had reached their greatest importance, but they have been in decline ever since.

“Look at us now!” cried the abbot of one of the monasteries. “Ah, . . . the young don’t want us any more!” Indeed, only six of the monasteries, two inhabited by nuns, are still open. Abandoned monastic complexes can be found on various Meteora rocks.

A Rich Cultural Showcase

Today the rock monasteries form one of the most interesting spots on the cultural map of Greece. According to the United Nations Educational, Scientific, and Cultural Organization, they are a unique treasure chest of cultural heritage. A recent concern of the Greek State is that the cultural wealth of the Meteora be preserved. Renovated buildings and museums have been opened for visitors. What do they contain?

Well, apart from such things as portable icons, ecclesiastical robes, and music codices, they contain rare historical Bible manuscripts. Among them is the parchment Codex 591, dated 861-62 C.E., which contains interpretative discourses on the Bible book of Matthew.

[Pictures on page 16]

Monastery of St. Nicholas Anapausas

Monastery of Rousanou

[Credit Line]

M. Thonig/H. Armstrong Roberts

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Monastery of the Holy Trinity

Monastery of the Great Meteoron

[Credit Line]

R. Kord/H. Armstrong Roberts