I-Ecuador—Izwe Eliphahle Inkabazwe

NJENGOBA sasiyizivakashi ezivela eYurophu, into yokuqala mina nomkami esayiqaphela nge-Ecuador kwakuyinkabazwe. Yiqiniso, iwumugqa ongabonakali, kodwa ithonya layo e-Ecuador lisobala.

Igama elithi Ecuador lingeleSpanishi elisho “inkabazwe.” Kungenzeka abanye bacabange ukuthi inkabazwe iyona elawula isimo sezulu sase-Ecuador. Nokho, lapho nje sifika, sathola ukuthi ukushisa noma ukubanda kwesimo sezulu akubangelwa kangako ukuthi indawo ikuphi, kodwa kubangelwa ukuphakama kwendawo umuntu akuyo ukusuka ogwini lolwandle. Njengoba ilanga likhipha inhlanzi emanzini cishe unyaka wonke kulezi zindawo eziphakeme, ukuphakama kwendawo ngaphezu kogu lolwandle kungesinye seziqondiso ezingcono kakhulu zokuthola ukuthi kufanele ugxishe kangakanani izingubo zokugqoka.

Nakuba inkabazwe ibonisa lokho i-Ecuador eyikho, izintaba zase-Andes zenza ukuba leli lizwe liphawuleke. Njengoba zinqamula izwe njengomhlandla, lezi zintaba ezibabazekayo zenza isimo sezwe sihlukahluke.

Izinhlobonhlobo Zemibala

Imibala iyinto yesibili eyasihlaba umxhwele e-Ecuador. Ngolunye usuku ekuseni sesifikile, sahlala ngaphansi komthunzi wezihlahla ezinkulu. Samukelwa umculo okhala njengomtshingo wezinyoni okuthiwa imigoqongo, ukuxabana kwama-wren okufundekelayo, nokutshiyoza okuklabalasayo kwama-antpitta anolaka. Kodwa imibala yalezi zinyoni yayikhanga ngaphezu kwemisindo ezaziyenza.

Ngokushesha okunjengokombani, inyoni i-flycatcher ebomvu yathushuka isuka othini lwayo izobamba umiyane. Iqulu lezinyoni ezingama-parakeet lalimemeza ukuze linakwe njengoba lithethisa inqe okuthiwa i-turkey vulture elalindiza phezulu. Imigoqongo enombala ophuzi nomnyama kanye nezimvemvane ezimakhifikhifi ngokuluhlaza kwanezela imibala yako kulowo mbukwane ongenakulibaleka.

Njengoba sinqamula leli lizwe, saphawula ukuthi imibala egqamile yezinyoni nezimvemvane yayisetshenziswa nasezingutsheni zokugqoka nasemisebenzini yezandla yase-Ecuador. Ngokwesibonelo, umbala obubende we-flycatcher, wawufana noweziketi ezibomvu zabesifazane bamaNdiya aseCañar. Kanti izindwangu ezihlotshisiwe zamaNdiya ase-Otavalo zazibonakala zinayo yonke imibala ekhona e-Ecuador.

Isimo Sezulu Esiguquguqukayo

Inkabazwe nezintaba zase-Andes kuyabambisana ekwenzeni ukuba kube nesimo sezulu esiguquguqukayo e-Ecuador. Ebangeni elingamakhilomitha ambalwa nje—elingahanjwa inqe i-condor—isimo sezulu singashintsha ekubeni esishisayo esinomswakama sase-Amazon sibe yiqhwa elikhithika eziqongweni zezintaba.

Ngolunye usuku, sasuka phansi mangenhla ne-Amazon ephakeme silibangise ezintabeni ezizungeze iQuito. Njengoba imoto yethu yayikhuphuka, saphawula indlela amahlathi emvula asendaweni eshisayo ashintsha ngayo kancane kancane abe amahlathi anamafu, ekugcineni abe yinkangala. Izinguquko ezimangalisayo zendawo zenza kwasengathi ngesikhashana nje sasisuke enkabeni ye-Afrika saya ezintabeni zaseScotland.

Amadolobha amaningi amancane namakhulu ase-Ecuador asezigodini ezingaphansi kwezintaba, lapho isimo sezulu sichazwa khona ngokuthi sifana nesentwasahlobo unyaka wonke. Nokho, amadolobha aphezulu ezintabeni zase-Andes angaba nesimo sezulu sanoma iyiphi yezinkathi ezine zonyaka nganoma isiphi isikhathi—futhi ngezinye izikhathi ngosuku zingaba khona zozine izikhathi zonyaka! Njengoba esinye isihambi esingumakadebona sasho, “isici esingase silindelwe ngokuqinisekile ngesimo sezulu sase-Ecuador ukuthi asinakubikezelwa.”

Ama-hummingbird Nama-condor

Isimo sezulu esiguquguqukayo senza kube nentilibathwa yezilwane nezitshalo. I-Ecuador inezinhlobo zezinyoni ezingaphezu kwezingu-1500, okuliphinda kabili inani lazo zonke ezise-United States naseCanada futhi leli nani liyingxenye eyodwa kweziyisithupha zazo zonke izinhlobo ezaziwayo emhlabeni. Zonke zitholakala ezweni elincane kune-Italy.

Ama-hummingbird amancane yiwona esasiwathanda kakhulu—kunezinhlobo zawo ezingu-120 e-Ecuador. Saqale sawabona ezingadini zasedolobheni, ematasa ekuseni ezulazula ezihlahleni ezincane eziqhakazile. Ayatholakala phakathi emahlathini emvula ase-Amazon ngisho nasezindaweni eziphakeme zase-Andes.

Edolobheni lase-Baños, sachitha ihora sibuka i-hummingbird ebizwa ngokuthi i-sparkling violet-ear idla izimbali ezibomvu ze-hibiscus. Njengoba indiza ngokungakhathali isuka kulembali iye kwelandelayo, imunca ngobuciko umpe oluyigugu, kwafika imbangi eyayingatatazeli. Kwakuyi-trainbearer enomsila omnyama, eyethiwe ngomsila wayo omude omnyama oyenza ukuba lapho indiza endaweni yayo ixosha izimbangi, ibukeke njengenkanyezi emnyama enomsila. Esikhundleni sokundiza emoyeni, le-hummingbird yavele yahlala izithonto esiqwini yabe isihlaba izimbali ngemuva ukuze imunce umpe.

Akuzona zonke izinyoni zase-Ecuador ezincane kangaka. I-condor enkulukazi, enkulu kunazo zonke izinyoni ezizingelayo, isatholakala ezintabeni zase-Andes, nakuba inani layo selinciphe kakhulu. Njalo sasisinga eziqongweni eziphakeme, sinethemba lokubona isithunzi sayo, kodwa lutho. Esifundazweni sase-Amazon, ukhozi okuthiwa i-harpy eagle—inyoni ezingelayo enamandla kunazo zonke emhlabeni—nayo kunzima kabi ukuyibona. Isikhathi esiningi emini ivele iqhwakele egatsheni lomuthi omkhulu osehlathini lemvula elingonakalisiwe, ilindele ukuhwitha i-sloth noma inkawu.

Izitshalo Ezelaphayo

Izitshalo eziningi ezitholakala e-Ecuador ziyimithi kanti futhi ziyahlobisa. Lapho sivakashele ePodocarpus National Park, eningizimu nezwe, osibukisa indawo wasibonisa isihlahla esincane esinezithelo ezibomvu. “Lesiya sihlahla i-cascarilla,” echaza. “Sekungamakhulu eminyaka amagxolo aso kwenziwa ngawo i-quinine.” Eminyakeni engamakhulu amabili edlule, edolobheni laseLoja eliseduze, i-quinine yasindisa ukuphila kowesifazane wasebukhosini waseSpain owayesezobulawa umalaleveva. Idumela laso, osekukudala ama-Inca elazi, lasakazeka ngokushesha kuwo wonke umhlaba. Nakuba isihlahla i-cascarilla singanakeki lapho uqala ukusibona, umuthi otholakala emagxolweni aso uye wasindisa ukuphila kwabantu abaningi.

Amahlathi amafu lapho lesi sihlahla simila khona kakhulu anezihlahla eziningi zasendulo, emagatsheni azo amaholoholo kulenga izitshalo ezinameva, ezinye zazo ezinezimbali ezibomvu ngokugqamile. Lamahlathi akude ayisiphephelo futhi sesitshalo okusengathi ibhele elifake izibuko zamehlo i-ocelot, ne-puma kanye nezinye izinhlobo eziningi zezitshalo izazi zesayensi yezitshalo ezisazama ukuzihlaziya.

Izazi zesayensi zisacubungula ixoxo elincane lase-Ecuador, ngethemba lokuthi kungatholakala iziqeda zinhlungu ezingcono. Isikhumba esinoshevu saleli xoxo sikhipha isibulala-zinzwa okuthiwa sinamandla aphindwe izikhathi ezingu-200 kune-morphine.

Phezulu ezintabeni zase-Andes, sabona ezinye izitshalo esasingakaze sizibone ngaphambili. I-puya, isitshalo esiheha ama-hummingbird, yasikhumbuza ngomshanelo omkhulu oyisidala, olinde ukuba othile awuthathe futhi ashanele indawo ezungezile. Ezingoxini zenkangala engasanakwa kunamahlathi e-quinua anezihlahla ezimfushane, isihlahla esiqinile esiqopha umlando ngokukhula endaweni ephakeme njengaleyo okumila kuyo izihlahla zikaphayini zaseHimalaya. Lezi zihlahla ezicinene, eziphakeme ngamamitha amabili kuya kwamathathu, ziyisinindolo esicinene esithandwa izinyoni nezilwane.

Nokho, emahlathini emvula ase-Amazon, izihlahla zinde futhi zinothile. Lapho sivakashele iJatun Sacha Biological Station, sama ngaphansi kwesihlahla esikhulu ehlathini, esiphakeme ngamamitha angaphezu kwangu-30. Ngokungazelele sathuswa ukunyakaza kancane kwezimpande zaso ezinkulu. Sabe sesiqaphela ukuthi omunye wemifantu esezimpandeni wawuyikhaya lamalulwane amancane. Leso senzakalo sasikhumbuza ukuthi amahlathi ancike ekuhlalisaneni kwawo kahle nazo zonke lezi zinto eziningi eziphilayo. Njengoba amalulwane engabasakazi abakhulu bembewu nempova bamahlathi emvula, angumngane obalulekile wezihlahla eziwavikelayo.

Izimakethe Ezintabeni

Cishe amaphesenti angu-40 enani labantu base-Ecuador ayizizwe zamaNdiya. Amaqembu ahlukahlukene ezizwe—ngalinye livunule ngendlela yalo—ayisici esivelele sezindawo zase-Andes. Ngokuvamile, sasibona abesifazane bamaNdiya beqwala izindawo ezikhuphukelayo ezintabeni, behamba bephotha uboya bezimvu. Kubonakala sengathi wawungekho umqansa okhuphukela kangangokuba wawungenakulinywa. Sahlola enye insimu kakolweni, okwatholakala ukuthi ikhuphukela ngama-degree angu-45!

Izimakethe zase-Ecuador, njengaleyo yase-Otavalo, zidumile. Ziyizikhungo abantu bendawo abathenga noma badayise kuzo izilwane nemikhiqizo yasemasimini kanye nezingubo zendabuko ezilukiwe noma ezinye izinto eziyimisebenzi yezandla. Njengoba abantu bendawo beya emakethe bevunule ngezendabuko, leso sikhathi siba umbukwane oheha izivakashi eziningi. Ngezinsuku zokuya emakethe oFakazi BakaJehova nabo babamba ithuba lokuhlanganyela nabantu umyalezo weBhayibheli.

Okwenza izinto ezilukiwe zihehe ukuthi ezakudala futhi ziba nemibala eminingi yendawo nemabhadubhadu. Abantu base-Andes babeluka iziphuku zabo ezazaziwa esikhathini eside ngaphambi kokufika kwabaseSpain. Nakuba ikhono lawo selithuthukisiwe, lamaNdiya azikhandlayo asaziluka izinto ezinhle zokugqoka futhi ahlobise nezindwangu.

Izintaba Enkungwini

Ukuhamba unqamule izintaba zase-Andes akumlungele umuntu oguliswa ukuhamba ngemoto. Imigwaqo iyagwinciza, ikhuphukele ibuye yehlele, njengoba igudla izigodi ezimazombezombe. Umuntu okulolu hambo onesibindi uvuzwa ngokubona izindawo ezihlukahlukene, ezingase zichazwe nje ngokuthi ziyamangalisa.

Njengoba sikhuphuka siya e-Andes ngokokuqala ngqá, inkungu—ehlala ikhona njalo—yavele yamboza imoto yethu. Ngezinye izikhathi sasithi lapho siqhamukela enkungwini sibone kude lé amagquma ngamagquma anezigodi ezinenkungu ekhasa phansi. Njengoba sigudla ukhahlamba lwezintaba zase-Andes, kwakusengathi inkungu idlala nathi umacashelana. Sasidlula indawo embozwe ngokuphelele inkungu. Kuthi kusenjalo sithole ukuthi kwelandelayo libalele bhá.

Ngezinye izikhathi inkungu yayikhuphuka phansi; ngezinye yehle phezulu eziqongweni zezintaba. Nakuba kwakucasula ukubona indawo enhle isitshekelwe inkungu, inkungu eyayihleli phezu kweziqongo yayizenza zibe zinhle. Okubaluleke kakhulu, yenza ukuba amahlathi amafu athole ukuphila, njengoba ethola umswakama oyigugu kuleyo nkungu.

Ekuseni ngosuku lwethu lokugcina e-Ecuador, inkungu yaphenya. Kwaphela amahora amaningi sibuka ubuhle beCotopaxi—isiqongo esihle esimbozwe yiqhwa. Lentaba-mlilo esaqhuma, ephakeme kunazo zonke emhlabeni, iye yenziwa yaba umbukiso wendawo yombuso yokulondoloza imvelo. Njengoba sasisondela kulesi siqongo, samangala ukubona inguzunga yeqhwa elalincibilika kancane kancane lehla ngomthambeka wegquma. Nakuba lisendaweni ephakeme ngamamitha angu-6000, lalehlula ngisho namandla elanga lasenkabazwe.

Ngosuku olulandelayo, njengoba indiza yethu isuka eQuito isilibhekise ekhaya, sayibuka okokugcina i-Ecuador. Njengoba ilanga lalisanda kuphuma, sabona iCayambe, enye intaba-mlilo embozwe yiqhwa, ilunguze enkungwini futhi njengoba ihlatshwe ilanga, yayibenyezela njengegolide. Lentaba-mlilo, enesiqongo cishe esikuyo kanye inkabazwe, yabonakala iwuphawu oluhle lokuvalelisa izwe elithakazelisayo esasilivakashele. NjengeCayambe, i-Ecuador iphahle inkabazwe ngendlela ebabazekayo.—Inikelwe.

[Izithombe ekhasini 25]

Izintaba zase-Andes, ngemva kwayo kunentaba-mlilo iCotopaxi

Umdayisi wezimbali oyiNdiya

[Izithombe ekhasini 26]

1. I-“plantain” yasendle

2. I-“toucan barbet”

[Umthombo]

Foto: Zoo de Baños