Ukutshintshatshintsha Kwefashoni

KUNGAKHATHALISEKI ukuba siyazi okanye asazi, ukusa kumlinganiselo othile, indlela esinxiba ngayo iphenjelelwa yifashoni. Kaloku kuthengiswa izinto ezisefashonini.

Kwaneempahla esizigqala njengeziqhelekileyo, zazikhe zasefashonini. Ngokomzekelo, iihempe namaqhina amadoda aba sefashonini kwisithuba esingaphezu kwenkulungwane esadlulayo. Yaye iijezi zamanenekazi zabakho ukususela kwiminyaka yee-1920.

Zimbini izinto ezibangela ukuba ithandwe kangaka ifashoni—kukufuna ukunxiba into entsha nokungafuni ukwahluka. Phantse wonk’ umntu uyakuthanda ukunxiba into entsha. Yiloo nto kanye ebangela ukuba maxa wambi sithenge iimpahla ezintsha, sizithenga kuba sifuna ukunxiba into entsha kungekhona ukuba zimbatshile ezo sinazo. Kodwa kwangaxeshanye, asifuni kwahluka kwabanye, ngoko ukusa kumlinganiselo othile, sithenga iimpahla ezifana nezabantu esinxulumana nabo. Kwezi nkulungwane zidluleyo, iinkampani ezenza iimpahla ziye zathi gqi neefashoni ezahlukahlukeneyo—kuba ziyazi ukuba abantu bathanda ukunxiba into entsha yaye abafuni kwahluka kwabanye.

Imbali Emfutshane Ngefashoni

Xa becinga ngokwenza uhlobo oluthile lwesinxibo, abenzi beempahla bacinga ngezi nkalo zintlanu: umbala welaphu, i-silhouette, indlela elime ngayo, ubungqindilili balo nendlela elenziwe ngayo (okanye imizobo ekulo). Ukutyhubela iinkulungwane, abenzi beempahla baye bavelisa iifashoni ezahlukahlukeneyo besebenzisa ezi nkalo zontlanu. Ngokomzekelo, ilinen evelisa umzimba eyenziwe eYiputa yayikade ithandwa kakhulu kwelo yaye yayinxitywa xa kushushu. Kodwa ekubeni kwakunzima ukudaya ilinen, yayidla ngokuba ngumbala nje omnye—umbala omhlophe qhwa. Sekunjalo, xa abenzi beempahla baseYiputa babesenza iimpahla ngeli laphu, babeyenza ibe neepliti ukuze ibe nomtsalane. Yaqala ngaloo ndlela ke ifashoni esekho nanamhlanje ehlabathini lonke.

Ngenkulungwane yokuqala kwiXesha Eliqhelekileyo, kwabakho amalaphu nemibala emitsha. AmaRoma afumileyo aqalisa ukuthenga isilika eTshayina okanye eIndiya, kodwa iindleko zokuthutha isilika ephothiweyo zabangela ukuba ibize ixabiso eliphezulu ngokungathi yigolide. Enye into eyayithandwa kakhulu yiwulu edayiweyo eyayivela eTire yaye iwulu edayiweyo eyayimalunga nesiqingatha sekhilogram ubunzima yayixabisa malunga needenari ezili-1 000—umvuzo weminyaka emithathu kumntu oqhelekileyo. Ubukho bezi dayi nala malaphubabangela ukuba amabhinqa afumileyo aseRoma akwazi ukunxiba i-stola—umwunduzo—owenziwe ngelaphu eliluhlaza laseIndiya okanye owenziwe ngesilika emthubi yaseTshayina.

Nangona kwakukhe kuthi gqi ifashoni entsha, mandulo phayaa impahla yexabiso eliphezulu yayiba sefashonini ixesha elide. Ngelo xesha, yayingafane itshintshe ifashoni yaye xa ithe yatshintsha, olo tshintsho lwaluchaphazela abantu abafumileyo kuphela. Noko ke, imeko yezoqoqosho yatshintsha yaza ifashoni yaba nefuthe nakubantu abaqhelekileyo.

Ebudeni benkulungwane ye-19, iinkampani ezenza iimpahla zenza impahla efikelelekayo kwizityebi nakumahlwempu. Ukusetyenziswa kweendlela ezintsha xa kusenziwa amalaphu kwabangela ukuba lihle ixabiso lawo. Ubukho boomatshini bokuthunga kwabangela ukuba impahla yenziwe ngexabiso eliphantsi, yaye iidayi zenza ukuba kubekho imibala emininzi ekunokukhethwa kuyo.

Ukutshintsha kwezinto kwibutho labantu nakwezobugcisa kwabangela ukuba kwenziwe impahla efikelelekayo kubantu bonke. KwiNtshona Yurophu nakuMntla Merika, abantu baba nemali eninzi. Kwiminyaka yee-1850, kwabakho amaphephancwadi amabhinqa yaye kamsinya emva koko, iivenkile ezininzi zaqalisa ukuthengisa iisayizi zeempahla ezahlukahlukeneyo. Ukanti ngenkulungwane ye-19, uCharles Frederick Worth waqalisa ukwenza imiboniso yefashoni apho abantu babebonisa iimpahla ezahlukahlukeneyo ngelokuzama ukuvuselela umdla wabathengi.

Ngenkulungwane yama-20, ubukho bamalaphu amatsha njenge-rayon, i-nylon ne-polyester, kwabangela ukuba abenzi beempahla bakwazi ukusebenzisa amalaphu awahlukahlukeneyo. Iikhompyutha zabangela ukuba kube lula ukuvelisa ifashoni entsha, yaye ukudityaniswa kwehlabathi kwenza ukuba izinto ezisefashonini zaziwe ngaxeshanye eTokyo, eNew York, eParis, naseSão Paulo. Ukanti abenzi beempahla beza neendlela ezintsha zokuthengisa iimpahla zabo.

Namhlanje, abona bantu bathanda impahla esefashonini ngabantu abaselula ukodlula izityebi. Izigidi zabantu abaselula zithenga impahla entsha nyanga nganye yaye iinkampani ezenza iimpahla zenza impahla exabisa amawaka ezigidi zeedola ngonyaka.a Kodwa ngaba ukuthanda ifashoni kungumgibe?

[Umbhalo osemazantsi]

[Ibhokisi/Imifanekiso ekwiphepha 4, 5]

Abantu Abankqenkqeza Phambili Kwezefashoni

Kangangeenkulungwane eziliqela, yayingookumkani nabantu abakumgangatho ophezulu abankqenkqeza phambili kwezefashoni. Kwinkulungwane ye-17, uKumkani Louis XIII waseFransi wagqiba kwelokuba athwale i-wig ngelokufihla impandla yakhe. Kungekudala emva koko, abanye abantu abakumgangatho ophezulu eYurophu bacheba iintloko zabo baza bathwala ii-wig—yaye oku kwaqhubeka ixesha elingaphezu kwenkulungwane.

Ngenkulungwane ye-19, amaphephancwadi amabhinqa aqalisa ukubonisa iifashoni ezahlukahlukeneyo yaye kuloo maphephancwadi kwakukho imizobo yokwenza impahla eyayibiza imali encinane ukuze amabhinqa azenzele ngokwawo impahla. Njengoko ngenkulungwane yama-20 kwakusele kuxhaphaka ii-movie noomabonwakude, bathandwa kakhulu abadlali abadumileyo yaye ngabo ababenkqenkqeza phambili kwezefashoni. Iimvumi ezidumileyo zazinxiba ngendlela enomtsalane ebantwini yaye ulutsha oluninzi lwaqalisa ukunxiba njengazo. Izinto azikaguquki nanamhlanje, abathengisi basebenzisa imiboniso yefashoni, amaphephancwadi abangel’ umdla, izibhengezo zentengiso, iifestile zeevenkile noomabonwakude ukweyisela abantu ukuba bathenge impahla esefashonini.

[Umfanekiso]

UKumkani Louis XIII

[Inkcazelo]

From the book The Historian’s History of the World

[Umfanekiso okwiphepha 4]

Le mpahla eyayisenziwa ngelinen yamandulo yaseYiputa yenye yeefashoni eziye zahlala ixesha elide ehlabathini lonke

[Inkcazelo]

Photograph taken by courtesy of the British Museum

[Umfanekiso okwiphepha 4]

Amabhinqa aseRoma yamandulo ayenxiba i-“stola”

[Inkcazelo]

From the book Historia del Traje, 1917

[Umfanekiso okwiphepha 4, 5]

I-“kimono” ibikho ukususela phantse ngowama-650 kwiXesha Eliqhelekileyo

[Inkcazelo]

From the newspaper La Ilustración Artística, Volume X, 1891

[Umfanekiso okwiphepha 5]

Kwiinkulungwane ezidluleyo, impahla exabisa imali eninzi yayisiba sefashonini ixesha elide

[Inkcazelo]

EclectiCollections

[Umfanekiso okwiphepha 5]

Iinguqu kwezoshishino zabangela ukuba nabantu abaqhelekileyo bathande ifashoni

[Inkcazelo]

EclectiCollections