ISvalbard—Izwe Lezingu Ezibandayo

NGUMLOBELI WE-PHAPHAMA! ENORWAY

SIHAMBA ngendiza phakathi kogqinsi lwamafu, ngakho asiboni lutho. Kuthi kungazelelwe indiza yethu iphume phakathi kwamafu bese sibona ngaphansi indawo yase-Arctic embozwe iqhwa. Esikubonayo kuhlaba umxhwele! Sikhexe imilomo ngokubona izinguzunga zeqhwa, izindawo eziphahlwe amawa ezinemibala eluhlaza okwesibhakabhaka nezintaba ezimbozwe iqhwa. Le ndawo engamili lutho embozwe iqhwa iwudedangendlale. Ibizwa ngokuthi iSvalbard, iqoqo leziqhingi eliseduze neNorth Pole, futhi iphakathi kwama-degree angu-74 no-81 enyakatho nenkabazwe, thina siyizivakashi!

Igama elithi Svalbard, elisho “Ugu Olubandayo,” laqala ukuvela emlandweni wase-Iceland ngo-1194. Kodwa “ukutholakala” kwaleli zwe eminyakeni engu-400 kamuva, ngo-1596, yikona empeleni okwenza iSvalbard yaziwa emhlabeni. Ngalowo nyaka iqembu lamaDashi elihlola amazwe elaliholwa uWillem Barents lalihamba ngomkhumbi liya ngasenyakatho lapho omunye umqaphi owayekulowo mkhumbi ebona buqamama izwe elingaziwa, ukhahlamba lwezintaba olwaluneziqongo ezicijile. Laba bahloli bamazwe base befike enyakatho-ntshonalanga yeSvalbard, indawo uBarents ayibiza ngokuthi “iSpitsbergen,” okusho “Izintaba Ezicijile.” Manje leli sekuyigama lesiqhingi esikhulu kunazo zonke kuleli qoqo leziqhingi. Okwatholwa uBarents kwacaba indlela yenkathi ematasa yemisebenzi eyenziwa kule ndawo yaseSvalbard, ehlanganisa ukuzingela imikhomo nezimvu zamanzi, ukucupha izilwane, ukuhlola izwe futhi ekugcineni nezimayini zamalahle, ukuhlola kwezesayensi nezokuvakasha. Eminyakeni edlule, amazwe amaningana ayenengxenye kule misebenzi, kodwa kusukela ngo-1925 leli qoqo leziqhingi laqala ukubuswa yiNorway.

Izwe Leqhwa Nokukhanya Kwe-aurora Borealis

Indiza yethu yehlela e-Ice Fjord ize iyothi cababa eSikhumulweni Sezindiza SaseSvalbard. Silanda imoto yethu esiyiqashile bese siya eLongyearbyen, eyethiwe ngoJohn M. Longyear waseMelika, oyingqalabutho yezimayini zamalahle kule ndawo ezaqala ukusebenza ngo-1906. ILongyearbyen iyindawo yomphakathi enkulu kunazo zonke eSvalbard, enabantu abacishe babe ngu-2 000. Yebo, phakathi kwalezi zindawo eziwudedangendlale ezibonakala zingonakalisiwe nhlobo ngokwemvelo, sithola indawo yomphakathi yesimanje enezinto ezivamile njengesitolo esikhulu, iposi, ibhange, umtapo wezincwadi womphakathi, izikole, izinkulisa, amahhotela, amathilomu nezindawo zokudlela, isibhedlela nephephandaba lendawo. Emhlabeni wonke, iLongyearbyen iyindawo yomphakathi enkulu kunazo zonke ezisenyakatho impela, futhi ingama-degree angaphezu kuka-78 ngasenyakatho nenkabazwe.

Sithola indawo yokuhlala endlini yezihambi ngaphambili eyayihlala izisebenzi zasemayini. Yengame iLongyearbyen, futhi uma ulapho ukwazi ukubona intaba ekhexisa umlomo iHiorthfjellet. Njengoba kungu-October, izintaba zimbozwe iqhwa. Isigodi esingaphansi kwentaba asikakabi neqhwa, kodwa inhlabathi iyiqhwa. Leli yizwe leqhwa (permafrost). Iqhwa elingaphezu kwenhlabathi kuphela elincibilika isikhashana phakathi nehlobo. Nakuba kunjalo, ngenxa yomoya nemisinga yolwandle ewusizo, isimo sezulu asibandi kakhulu lapha njengakwezinye izindawo ezikule ngxenye yenkabazwe. Kule ndawo esihlala kuyo, sikwazi ukubona ilanga liphuma lé ezintabeni, kuyilapho isigodi sibonalakala sisethunzini elinombala oluhlaza okwesibhakabhaka. Kuyo yonke indawo yaseLongyearbyen ilanga aliphakami phakathi no-October 26 no-February 16. Kodwa ngokuvamile i-aurora borealis, noma ukukhanya kwasenyakatho, yenza kukhanye phakathi nale nkathi yasebusika. Ngakolunye uhlangothi, iSvalbard ijabulela ukukhanya phakathi kwamabili ngezinyanga zasentwasahlobo nasehlobo, kanti eLongyearbyen lokhu kwenzeka kusukela ngo-April 20 kuya ku-August 23.

Izimila Nezilwane

Izinga lokubanda lingu-8 °C. ngaphansi kwezinga-qhwa, futhi kuheleza umoya ohlabayo; kodwa isibhakabhaka sicwathile. Sesilungele uhambo lokungcebeleka. Siqwala iNtaba iSarkofagen nomqondisi wethu bese sehlela enguzungeni yeqhwa yaseLongyearbreen. Njengoba sikhuphuka izintaba ezilele iqhwa, usitshela ukuthi kunezimbali eziningi ezinhle ezimila lapha entwasahlobo nasehlobo. Empeleni, iSvalbard icebe ngendlela emangalisayo ngohlaza, futhi kunezinhlobo zezimila eziqhakazayo ezingaba ngu-170. Izinhlobo ezimbili zezimbali ezivame ukumila lapha eSvalbard ama-poppy amhlophe noma aphuzi nama-saxifrage ansomi anephunga elimnandi.

Njengoba sikhuphuka nale ntaba elele iqhwa, sibona imikhondo yenyoni yaseSvalbard i-ptarmigan, okuyiyona kuphela engafuduki kule ndawo. Zonke ezinye izinyoni, njengama-Brünnich’s guillemot, ama-auk amancane nezinhlobo ezihlukahlukene zezinyoni zasogwini kanye nama-purple sandpiper, ziyafuduka. Inyoni ethakazelisa kakhulu yi-arctic tern. Iningi lalezi zinyoni zifudukela lé eningizimu e-Antarctica, emajukujukwini omhlaba.

Sibona nemikhondo yempungushe yasezindaweni ezibandayo. Lesi silwane esiyiqili sidla izilwane ezifile nokudla okushiywe ezinye izilwane, kodwa ngaphezu kwalokho idla amaphuphu namaqanda. Impungushe iphakathi kwezinhlobo ezimbili zezilwane ezingezalapha eSvalbard ngendabuko. Olunye uhlobo lwezilwane zalapha amaphiva angeyona ingozi. Siwabonela eduze izikhathi eziningana njengoba sihlala lapha eSvalbard. Amane asibuke ngesizotha asiyeke sisondele siwathwebule izithombe ngaphambi kokuba ahambe. La maphiva anemilenze emifushane noboya obuwugqinsi obufudumele. Manje ekwindla akhuluphele ngempela—ungqimba lwamafutha engeziwe luwukudla kwawo okugciniwe, okudingeka ngezikhathi zasebusika obubandayo.

Abaningi babheka amabhere asezindaweni ezibandayo, omakhonya balapha e-Arctic, njengezilwane zasolwandle njengoba echitha isikhathi sawo esiningi olwandle oluneqhwa ezingela izimvu zamanzi. Kodwa ungahlangana namabhere ezihambahambela odwa kuyo yonke le ndawo yaseSvalbard. Umqondisi wethu akakufisi lokho. La mabhere anonya, ngakho uphethe isibhamu ukuze silondeke. Kusukela ngo-1973 kwavalwa ngokomthetho ukuzingela la mabhere, futhi uma kutholakala elithile libulewe amaphoyisa ayaphenya ngalolo daba. Nakuba la mabhere esemaningi manje kule ndawo yaseSvalbard, kusenokukhathazeka okukhulu ngekusasa lalezi zilwane ezihlaba umxhwele. I-Arctic ingase ibonakale imhlophe qwa futhi ingangcolisiwe, kodwa izinto ezinoshevu ezingcolisa umhlaba njengama-PCB ziye zaba negalelo elikhulu kule ndawo. Lezi zinto ezingcolisa umhlaba zinqwabelana emizimbeni yala mabhere, njengoba kuyiwona angabazingeli abayinhloko abadla ezinye izilwane, futhi lokhu kubonakala kulimaza ikhono lawo lokuzalana.

Sihamba size siyothi dundu esiqongweni seNtaba iSarkofagen futhi sivuzwa ngombono ohlaba umxhwele weziqongo eziningana ezilele iqhwa laphayá buqamama. Ngaseningizimu sibona intaba ekhexisayo eyindilinga iNordenskiöldfjellet, ebenyezeliswa imisebe yelanga. Laphaya ngezansi sibona iLongyearbyen, kanti thina senganyelwe isibhakabhaka esiluhlaza sase-Arctic. Sizwa sengathi sengamele wonke umhlaba. Izingcezu zesinkwa nenkomishi yesiphuzo se-black currant—okuyisiphuzo esivamile sabaqwali bezintaba esenziwa ngompe lwe-black currant, ushukela namanzi ashisayo—kuyasiqabula futhi sesikulungele ukwehla ngasenguzungeni yeqhwa yaseLongyearbreen.

Izimayini Zamalahle Nezilwane Ezisongelwayo

Ukuvakashela emayini yamalahle endala kungesinye isenzakalo esithakazelisayo. Isidlakela sensizwa engumqondisi wethu, eyisisebenzi sasemayini yamalahle esingumakadebona, sisibonisa iMayini 3, engaphandle nje kweLongyearbyen. Sigqoke ama-ovaloli nezigqoko zesivikelo ezinamalambu ngaphambili, sihamba naso size siyongena phakathi entabeni. Sitshelwa ukuthi izimayini zamalahle bekuyiwona msebenzi oyinsika lapha eSvalbard kusukela ngasekuqaleni kwawo-1900. Kwaphela iminyaka izisebenzi zasemayini ziphila kanzima. Zazigaqa ngezandla nangamadolo emigodini emide, noma emihubheni, enezingqimba zamalahle kwezinye izindawo ezazingamasentimitha angaphezudlwana nje kuka-70 ukuphakama. Sithola ithuba lokuzama ukwenza umsebenzi wazo kodwa asifisi neze ukuba yizona. Umsebenzi wazo wawunzima, umoya ugcwele uthuli lwamalahle namatshe futhi kunomsindo omkhulu, kanti kwakuhlale kunengozi yokuqhuma nokudilikelwa umgodi. Manje sekusetshenziswa izindlela zesimanje. Izimayini zamalahle zisenengxenye ebalulekile emnothweni waseSvalbard, kodwa kula mashumi eminyaka ambalwa adlule, ezokuvakasha ziye zaba imboni ebaluleke ngokwengeziwe.

Abantu abakaze bacabange ukuthi izilwane zase-Arctic zingaba sengozini. Ngezinye izikhathi ukuzingelwa kwemikhomo, ama-walrus, amaphiva, amabhere nezinye izilwane kubeka ezinye izinhlobo zezilwane zaseSvalbard engozini yokuqothulwa. Kodwa, imithetho yokulondoloza imvelo iye yasiza ekulondolozeni izinhlobo eziningana zezilwane ebezisongelwa.

Ipharadesi Lezazi Zesayensi Yokwakheka Komhlaba

ISvalbard iye yachazwa ‘njengepharadesi lezazi zesayensi yokwakheka komhlaba.’ Njengoba uhlaza luthé gqwa gqwa, indawo yalapha ibukeka njengencwadi enezithombe yesayensi yokwakheka komhlaba. Siqaphela izindlela eziphawulekayo izintaba ezakheke ngazo, ezihlanganisa izindlela ezicacile izingqimba zamatshe ezendlaleke ngazo futhi cishe zibukeka njengamakhekhe amakhulu anezitezi. Kutholakala amatshe abelokhu ekhona kuyo yonke inkathi yomlando womhlaba. Amanye akhiwa isihlabathi nobumba; amanye akhiwa izinto eziphilayo. Eminyakeni eminingi edlule izimila nezilwane eziningi ezifile zagqitshwa ubumba zabe sezilondolozeka ngaphansi njengezinsalela. Empeleni, lezi zinsalela ezitholakala ematsheni zingezezinkathi ezihlukahlukene zomlando womhlaba.

Emnyuziyamu waseSvalbard, sihlola izinsalela eziningi zezimila nezilwane zasendaweni efudumele, okubonisa ukuthi ngaphambili isimo sezulu kuleli qoqo leziqhingi sasifudumele kakhulu kunanamuhla. Kwezinye izindawo zalapha eSvalbard izingqimba zamalahle zingamamitha amahlanu! Ezingqimbeni zamalahle, kuye kwatholakala izinsalela zezihlahla ezingavuthuki nezinye izinhlobo ezivuthukayo. Ukutholakala kwemikhondo yesibankwakazi esidla uhlaza kungobunye ubufakazi bokuthi le ndawo ngaphambili yayinesimo sezulu esifudumele futhi inothile ngohlaza.

Lungachazwa kanjani-ke lolu shintsho olukhulu kangaka lwesimo sezulu? Sibuza isazi sesayensi yokwakheka komhlaba uTorfinn Kjaernet, ummeleli wabaQondisi Bezimayini zaseLongyearbyen. Sisitshela ukuthi izazi eziningi zesayensi yokwakheka komhlaba zicabanga ukuthi isizathu esiyinhloko ukugudluka kancane kancane kwamazwekazi. Lezi zazi zithi iSvalbard iphezu kongqimba lomhlaba olunyakazayo osekuphele iminyaka eminingi lulokhu lugudlukela ngasenyakatho, futhi kungenzeka ukuthi lwalusuka endaweni ekude ngaseningizimu eduze nenkabazwe. Ngokokuhlola kwanamuhla kweziphuphutheki, iSvalbard isagudlukela enyakatho-mpumalanga ngamasentimitha ambalwa unyaka nonyaka.

Njengoba indiza yethu isuka eSvalbard, sinomuzwa wokuthi ukuvakasha kwethu kusishiye nokuningi esingacabanga ngakho. Indawo ewudedangendlale yase-Arctic, izilwane ezikwazi ukuzivumelanisa kahle nendawo nazo zonke izitshalo ezihlukahlukene kusenza sicabange ngendalo ehlukahlukene, ukungabi yilutho komuntu nendlela abantu abawubheka ngayo umsebenzi wabo wokunakekela imvelo. Njengoba indiza iya ngaseningizimu, silibona okokugcina izwe lezingu ezibandayo, futhi ezinye iziqongo zezintaba ezimbozwe iqhwa ezifinyelela ngalé kwamafu zithola imisebe yelanga lantambama, zibe nombala ophaphathekile obomvana.

[Ibalazwe ekhasini 24]

(Ukuze ubone ukuthi indaba ihlelwe kanjani, bheka encwadini)

North Pole

GREENLAND

SVALBARD

Longyearbyen

75°N

ICELAND

NORWAY

60°N

RUSSIA

[Isithombe ekhasini 25]

Idolobhana laseLongyearbyen

[Isithombe ekhasini 25]

Kunezimila eziningi eziqhakazayo, njengama-“saxifrage” ansomi, ezimila esimweni sezulu esishubisa umnkantsha sase-Arctic

[Umthombo]

Knut Erik Weman

[Izithombe ekhasini 26]

I-“ptarmigan” nephiva laseSvalbard

[Umthombo]

Knut Erik Weman