Ukushintsha Kwemfashini

KUNGAKHATHALISEKI ukuthi siyaqaphela yini noma cha, izinqumo esizenza nsuku zonke zokuthi sizogqokani zithonywa yimfashini ngezinga elithile. Phela, ithonya elinamandla lemfashini yilo ngokuyinhloko elinquma ukuthi yini etholakala esitolo.

Ngisho nezingubo zokugqoka esizithatha kalula manje zake zaba sesitayeleni ngesikhathi esithile. Ngokwesibonelo, ihembe labesilisa nothayi kwakuyimfashini ethandwayo eminyakeni engaphezu kwekhulu edlule. Kanti ijezi labesifazane langena emfashinini emuva ngawo-1920.

Zimbili izifiso eziyinhloko ezigqugquzela imfashini—ukufuna izinto ezintsha kanye nokufuna ukuhambisana nesikhathi. Cishe wonke umuntu uyakuthanda ukugqoka okuthile okusha. Yingakho ngezinye izikhathi sithenga izingubo zokugqoka, hhayi ngenxa yokuthi ingubo endala isigugile, kodwa ngenxa nje yokuthi sifuna ushintsho. Ngesikhathi esifanayo, asifuni ukuzizwa sihlukile, ngakho sithenga izingubo ezivumelana ngezinga elithile nesitayela esigqokwa abantu esibajwayele. Phakathi namakhulu eminyaka umkhakha wezengqephu uye wanelisa—ngezinye izikhathi wasizakala—ngalezi zifiso zokufuna izinto ezintsha kanye nokufuna ukuhambisana nesikhathi.

Umlando Ofingqiwe

Ukuze bakhe isitayela sokugqoka, abaklami basebenzisa izici ezinhlanu eziyisisekelo: umbala, ukuma komklamo, indlela ingubo ehlala ngayo, uhlobo lwendwangu, kanye nokuvumelana kwemicu yendwangu (noma imiklamo yendwangu). Izinhlobo zezinto ezitholakalayo abaklami nabathungi abangakhetha kuzo kulezi zici ezinhlanu zizonke, ziye zanda kakhulu kule minyaka edlule. Ngokwesibonelo, eGibhithe lasendulo, ilineni elibonisa ngalé elikhiqizwe khona laliyindwangu ethandwayo, futhi lalilungele isimo sezulu esifudumele. Kodwa ngenxa yokuthi kwakungelula ukudaya ilineni, lalivame ukutholakala ngombala owodwa kuphela—omhlophe. Noma kunjalo, abaklami bemfashini baseGibhithe benza imifingcizo kule ndwangu ukuze izingubo zabo zihlale kahle emzimbeni futhi zingabonisi ngalé. Savela kanjalo-ke esinye sezitayela zokugqoka ezahlala isikhathi eside emhlabeni.

Ngekhulu lokuqala C.E., kwase kukhona izindwangu ezintsha nemibala emisha. AmaRoma acebile ayethenga usilika eChina noma eNdiya, nakuba izindleko zohambo zazenza usilika olukiwe ubize njengegolide. Enye indwangu eyayisemfashinini kwakuwuvolo odayiwe waseTire, ikhilogremu lawo elilodwa elalibiza odenariyu abangu-2 000—iholo leminyaka eyisithupha lesisebenzi esivamile. Odayi abasha nezindwangu kwenza abesifazane baseRoma abacebile bagqoka i-stola—ingubo yangaphandle ende evulekile—eyayenziwe ngokotini waseNdiya onombala wesibhakabhaka noma ngosilika ophuzi waseChina.

Nakuba kwakuvela izitayela ezintsha ngezikhathi ezithile, enkathini edlule ingubo ebizayo cishe yayiba semfashinini ukuphila konke. Izinguquko zazithatha kade futhi zazivame ukuthinta izicukuthwane kuphela. Nokho, lapho kufika inguquko yezezimboni, imfashini yaqala ukuba nethonya kubantu abavamile.

Phakathi nekhulu le-19, kwavela izimboni ezazikhiqiza izingubo zabacebile nabampofu. Imishini yokwenza indwangu kakotini nekavolo yanda, futhi intengo yezindwangu yehla. Ngenxa yemishini yokuthunga, izingubo zokugqoka zakhiqizwa ngentengo ephansi, futhi odayi bezindwangu abasha baletha imibala eminingi ehlukahlukene abantu ababengakhetha kuyo.

Izinguquko zezenhlalo nezobuchwepheshe zafeza indima enkulu ngisho nakakhulu ekugqokiseni iningi. ENtshonalanga Yurophu naseNyakatho Melika, abantu babenemali. Ngawo-1850, kwaqala ukuvela omagazini bezimfashini zabesifazane, futhi ngokushesha ngemva kwalokho izitolo zaqala ukudayisa izingubo ezithungiwe ngosayizi abavamile. Khona futhi ekhulwini le-19, uCharles Frederick Worth wasungula imibukiso yengqephu, esebenzisa onobuhle ukuze avuse isithakazelo sabantu ababengase babe amakhasimende akhe.

Ekhulwini lama-20, izindwangu ezintsha zokwenziwa, ezinjenge-rayon, inayiloni, ne-polyester, zanikeza abaklami izinhlobonhlobo zezindwangu ababengazisebenzisa. Imiklamo eyenziwe nge-computer yenza kwaba lula ukuveza izitayela ezintsha, futhi ngenxa yokuhwebelana kwembulunga yonke, izitayela ezintsha zemfashini zazingatholakala cishe ngasikhathi sinye eTokyo, eNew York, eParis naseSão Paulo. Ngesikhathi esifanayo, abaklami nabathungi baye bathola izindlela ezintsha zokukhangisa ngemikhiqizo yabo.

Namuhla intsha isithathe isikhundla sabantu abacebile njengabashisekeli abakhulu bemfashini. Nyanga zonke, izigidi zayo zithenga izingubo ezintsha, futhi le mboni ikhiqiza izingubo ezidla izigidigidi zamaRandi unyaka ngamunye.a Kodwa ingabe zikhona izingibe ezifihlekile?

[Umbhalo waphansi]

[Ibhokisi/Isithombe ekhasini 5]

Abasunguli Besitayela

Emakhulwini eminyaka kwakungamakhosi nezicukuthwane ababehola ezitayeleni zokugqoka. Ekhulwini le-17, inkosi yaseFrance uLouis XIII yanquma ukugqoka iwigi ukuze ifihle impandla. Kungakabiphi, izicukuthwane zaseYurophu zaqala ukugunda izinwele zagqoka namawigi—isitayela esashisa izikhotha iminyaka engaphezu kwekhulu.

Ekhulwini le-19, omagazini bezimfashini zabesifazane babeveza izingubo ezisemfashinini futhi benamaphethini ezingubo ashibhile ukuze abesifazane bazithungele ezabo izingubo. Ekhulwini lama-20, njengoba amabhayisikobho nethelevishini kwakuqala ukwanda, osaziwayo bathandwa emhlabeni wonke futhi basungula izitayela zemfashini. Nabaculi abathandwayo bagqoka izitayela eziyinqaba, intsha eningi eyazilingisa ngokushesha. Namuhla, akukho okushintshile, njengoba abakhangisi bephumelela ekusebenziseni imibukiso yengqephu, omagazini abakhangayo, amabhodi ezikhangiso, amafasitela ezitolo, nezikhangiso zethelevishini ukuze bavuse isifiso sezingubo ezintsha.

[Isithombe]

INkosi uLouis XIII

[Umthombo]

From the book The Historian’s History of the World

[Isithombe ekhasini 4]

Le ngubo yelineni yaseGibhithe lasendulo yayingesinye sezitayela zemfashini ezahlala isikhathi eside emhlabeni

[Umthombo]

Photograph taken by courtesy of the British Museum

[Isithombe ekhasini 4]

ERoma lasendulo abesifazane babegqoka i-“stola”

[Umthombo]

From the book Historia del Traje, 1917

[Isithombe ekhasini 4, 5]

I-“kimono” ibilokhu ikhona kusukela cishe ngo-650 C.E.

[Umthombo]

From the newspaper La Ilustración Artística, Volume X, 1891

[Isithombe ekhasini 5]

Enkathini edlule cishe ingubo ebizayo yayiba semfashinini ukuphila konke

[Umthombo]

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[Isithombe ekhasini 5]

Inguquko yezezimboni yenza ukuba abantu abavamile bathakazelele imfashini kakhudlwana

[Umthombo]

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